Frequently Asked
Questions...

FLOOR FINISHES

How do I know when floor finish is dry enough to recoat?
Our label states a dry time that is accurate under ideal drying conditions. If humidity is high, then recoat times should be extended. A quick test to determine proper finish dryness is to place a piece of facial tissue on the floor and step down and twist the tissue under your foot. If the tissue doesn't tear, the floor is usually okay to recoat.

What is the advantage of using a urethane-fortified floor finish?
Water-based urethane polymers impart some unique properties into a floor finish that acrylics can't provide. They are noted for excellent flexibility (repairability), toughness and abrasion resistance. They give floor finishes good black mark and scuff resistance, durability and long-term gloss retention.

Why does a finished floor lose its shine?
Shine, or reflection, is a product of optics. A very smooth, clean surface will reflect light in a parallel pattern producing a deep, reflective shine. As floors become worn, uneven and soiled, reflected light becomes scattered producing a dull, flat appearance. Essential floor finishes are extremely easy to clean and restore since they do not trap dirt or marks. Our finishes release soil when cleaned and buffed, thus producing a long-term, high gloss finish.

I've just put down six coats of finish and my floor is marking excessively. What has happened?
This is one of the most common problems users have with floor finish application. This is a classic case of "too much finish too fast." What has happened is that the first few coats of finish haven't cured which traps moisture and keeps the top layers of finish soft. This in turn leads to excessive marking and soiling. Apply a maximum of four coats* of finish per night.

What should I do to eliminate the problem of excessive marking?
First, start out by only applying a maximum of four coats* in one night. Keep the coat thickness on the medium to thin side. If drying conditions aren't ideal, lengthen your recoat times. For a floor with trapped moisture, deep scrub using eight ounces of Citrus Scrub 'N Shine (#525) and lay another coat of finish. Continue to burnish the floor to assist in the curing process.

*Three coats when applying Pureshine™ 25 (#216) and High Build™ (#285).

The post office requires black floor finish for their plank asphalt floors. Does Essential supply such an item?
No, but we can tell you where to source black dye and how to use it:

The dye comes from Pylam Products Co. of Tempe, AZ. Their phone number is (800) 645-6096. The dye is called Pylaklor Black LX 9114. We recommend you add 0.2 - 0.3% to Eccothane just prior to application. Stir well and apply finish as you would to a normal floor. Any leftover product should be discarded since it will separate over time.

From time to time I have had complaints from end-users about static electricity sparks. Why do they occur and what can be done about them?
Static electricity sparks or shocks can be very startling to a person. The spark is painful because it is extremely hot. It actually creates a microscopic burn to the skin.

This phenomenon happens in very dry air (relative humidity less than 25%). Static electricity occurs when the soles of our shoes steal negative ions from the floor (insulator). We leave behind "electrified" positive footprints, and our bodies acquire an overall negative charge imbalance. After many footsteps - i.e., throughout a supermarket - our bodies attain a high level of electric charge and a very high voltage (10,000 - 40,000 volts)! The next time you touch someone or another object (especially a conductor like store shelving, a metal can or a light switch) you get shocked because the imbalanced charge (negative versus positive) gets shared between you and the object.

To prevent shocks, the negative/positive charge separation must be stopped. This can be done through:

1. Using leather soled shoes (thinner soles are better)
2. Raising the relative humidity in the building
3. Mopping floors with antistatic liquid

Mopping floors with antistatic solution has limitations. On hard surfaces, frequent applications are needed to provide optimal performance.

The use of conductive or electrostatic dissipative floor finish will not prevent all static electricity shocks since the finishes are humidity-dependent (most require relative humidity greater than 25% to work).

Therefore, raising the relative humidity in the environment is the best prevention against static electricity shocks. Raising the humidity can be done through Mother Nature (such as rain or a change of season) or through humidifiers.

Do high solids floor finishes perform better than standard solids finishes?
This frequently discussed subject often is misunderstood. Many people believe that the higher the solids, the better the performance of the floor finish. This is just not true. The only property that changes when floor solids are elevated is laydown gloss.

Think of it this way - Four coats of 18% finish: 18% x 4 = 76. Three coats of 25% finish: 25% x 3 = 75. Higher solids products allow for fewer coats. The timesaving advantage of fewer coats can quickly disappear if high solids products are not used properly.

When too many coats or too thick of coats of high solids finishes are applied without adequate dry time, water and some of the fugitive plasticizers can be trapped between coats and cause excessive scuffing, dirt penetration and premature wear. This is especially true during hot, humid weather. Many high solids products require more skill to apply (Essential's High Build (#285) does not). A streaky floor that needs to be re-stripped saves no time.

To obtain other floor finish properties such as ultra high speed burnishability, non-buff features, exceptional wear and reduced labor, one simply has to use finishes technically designed to meet those needs.

Why do some floors turn yellow?
Discoloration, or yellowing of floor finishes, is caused when certain ingredients darken upon exposure to heat and light. These ingredients include highly styrenated acrylic polymers, certain varieties of polyethylene wax, and aromatic (cyclic) polyurethanes. At Essential, we take pride in formulating our finishes with little or no color. A great deal of research and development goes into producing these low color finishes. This is achieved through formulating with low styrene content acrylic polymers and incorporating non-yellowing polyethylene waxes into our finishes. Even our urethane-fortified finishes (Eccothane^® and High Build™) are formulated not to discolor because they use aliphatic (non-cyclic) polyurethanes.

Of course, proper maintenance will assure long-term beauty and extended stripping cycles. In short, Essential floor finishes are formulated to look great upon initial application and look even better one or two years later.

Why does my floor "grey out" in the winter but not in the summer?
During the winter, in colder climates, finished floors are constantly under attack from ice melters, sand and large volumes of water (tracked-in snow). This combination tends to soften the floor finish and make it more susceptible to soil penetration. More frequent maintenance of entranceways is the only way to alleviate this problem. Blue Concentrate (#2085) is an excellent product for winter floor maintenance.

What is the minimum temperature that I can apply finish at?
Ideally, the floor and surrounding area should be at room temperature (70°F / 21°C). If you must apply in a cold environment, we recommend that the absolute minimum room temperature be 55°F (13°C). Cold temperature application retards water evaporation and proper coalescing of the film. The result can be a soft, poorly adherent film that, when drying finally occurs, may be cracked or brittle (powders) with poor adhesion.